Ternate
Because of our lack of full understanding of the
bureaucratic process in Indonesia with regard to our visas we wasted a lot of
time in Bali and then had to make tracks for Ternate in order to extend our
visa on schedule. So we missed some
great spots, like Bone Rate and Wakatobi Islands. We actually poked our bow into Bone Rate
for a few minutes but were unable to find a suitable spot to anchor. Like everywhere in this part of the world,
the anchorages are very deep and then you hit reef. We wanted to check out the pinisi boat
building operation on the beach but we could only take a quick glance as we
backed out of the harbor and continued on our way to Bau Bau on the bottom of
SE Sulawesi to get fuel. We arrived at
Bau Bau in the middle of the night but were able to anchor across from the
town. In the morning we dumped our jerry
jugs of diesel into the tanks and prepared to move over to town but a squall
hit so we waited out the storm and then moved over. As we were coming in a water taxi flagged us
down and soon we had a boat full of uniforms and civilians directing us to the
Coast Guard office. Everyone was very
friendly but we were unsure as to why we needed 7 people on board.
I visited the harbormaster while Jim
guarded the boat. They see very few
yachties in this part of the world so I was a kind of “celebrity” for a
bit. My picture was taken dozens of
times and behind the counters heads would pop up like a video game to take a
peek at me. I just smiled and waved
and posed. The head guy looked over the paperwork, gave
permission for us to get fuel and then for a fee sent off a crew to fill our
containers. Only one officer was a bit
short with me and reprimanded me for not speaking “Bahasa”.
On our way again, a straight shot to Ternate. We passed between Taliabu and Mangoli islands, through Selak Capilulu, a narrow
cut with strong currents, reefs and rips.
We arrived at the perfect time, wind and current going with us, but a
squall approached just as we made the entrance and robbed our visibility so we
backed off for an hour and waited it out.
Two days later we arrived at Ternate, again in the middle of the night,
but we were able to get in and anchored off the main fishing pier. In the morning we had strong winds which
sent a few of the local fishing contraptions down on us. We decided we better move closer in but it
took us an hour to untangle our anchor chain from the rubble on the bottom.
A very nice young man, Bahar, was sent by Raymond of the Sail
to Indonesia Rally, to help us get our visas extended. He became our "Little Buddy" (think Gilligan and the skipper...) He introduced us to his aunt who makes yummy fried bananas.
Bastiogne had the cleanest and most orderly
little market I’ve ever been in. We spent just a few days, mostly looking for
boat parts, before moving to Jailolo, just 17 miles away, to meet the rest of
the rally. This was our view from this anchorage. Nice, huh?
Cruiser Notes : Anchorage at Bau Bau(05 26.2S; 122 34.3E) (05 27.1S; 122 36.3E) Nothing much here to stay for. The cut between the island and the mainland looked interesting but we were worried about currents so chose to take the outside route. Still a current, probably at least 2-l/2 knots. I was looking at the island lighthouse at Wakatobi forever it seemed.
Anchorage at Ternate fishing port: (00 46.04.7N; 127 22 47.4E). Great little market right off the dock. We tied up to the Navy boat and gave the guys cigarettes a coupleof times. There is a solar pump right on the dock and we negotiated to get it in our jerry jugs for 6,000 rph a litre. Again, solar is subsidized so it is not legal for us to get it without an agent, however, it is done, and the Navy guys looked the other way. Catch bemos into town just next to the market. Large supermarket in town near the grand mosque. Around the corner there is a laundry across from the mosque.
